The smokehouse has been part of Indigenous culture, traditions, and practice for generations as a way to preserve food.
The province's Parliamentary Secretary for Agriculture Harwinder Sandhu made a visit to Cowichan Tribes territory in Duncan on June 2 to meet with Salish educator and traditional-foods chef Jared “Qwustenuxun” Williams who aims to keep that tradition alive and thriving. He was a recipient of the Indigenous Food Sovereignty and Security program which provided funding for him to build a commercial-quality kitchen to complement the traditional smokehouse on his property. Also present was MLA and Cowichan Tribes member Debra Toporowski.
“Working alongside Indigenous partners is crucial to growing and maintaining our province’s food systems and part of our government’s ongoing commitment to reconciliation,” said Sandhu. “These Indigenous-led projects highlight how Indigenous knowledge supports increasing local food supply and food security, especially in rural and remote communities.”
When environmental health officers visited the smokehouse on Williams's property in 2021, he was told to meet the proper requirements he needed a space for both handwashing and refrigeration within 20 feet of his smokehouse, sparking the idea for a new commercial-quality kitchen space. In 2023, the Indigenous-led non-profit organization New Relationship Trust launched the $30-milllion Indigenous Food Security and Sovereignty Program as a way to support both on-reserve and off-reserve projects, such as revitalizing food harvesting and Indigenous agro-ecosystems and expanding production capacity, boosting local food processing and distribution, all while growing commercial value-added enterprises. NRT provided Williams with funding of $80,000 to go forward with the project.
“Building the smokehouse has taken more time than I first expected, but that time has allowed me to really think about how to bring together traditional methods and new ideas,” said Williams. “I’m creating a modern version of the smokehouse that’s still rooted in our teachings, something that reflects both where we come from and where we’re going. I’m grateful for the support that came with patience and trust, because meaningful work doesn’t always follow a set timeline.”
In 2021, Williams worked with First Nations Health alongside the CDC, where 25 samples from his smokehouse highlighted that the Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point (HACCP) provides a Food Safe Shelf Stable product, even though he uses a wooden space. The former manager of the Elders Kitchen in Cowichan Tribes, Williams studied culinary arts back in 2020 but found it frustrating that the cuisines of many cultures including his own was not being represented. Since, he has been working with the Cowichan District Hospital to get more Indigenous cuisine available to their patients. Sandhu, who has a background in health care, believes this will surely play a significant role in their healing.
"It's not only the nutritious value with how it's prepared, but also the moment they hold it and take the first bite it will also have an impact on their mental well-being too," said Sandu.
"You have created a ripple effect, now with this space you'll be able to make those traditional foods which feeds the soul," said Toporowski.
Williams fondly remembers everyone having a smokehouse when he was young, but sadly they don't have the strong presence they once did or are now used as sheds.
"We've had severely declining salmon returns which has led to less use of our smokehouses," said Williams. "It's more expensive to live now than ever before so when we look at opportunities for our youth to have economic success, it's frustrating because our smokehouse are not regulatory approved so if we want our next generations to learn how to smoke fish, it's not something they could successfully do for a living, but if we can navigate regulations here and create a way ahead then our youth can learn this skill and create a value added seafood product, and be toe to toe with any other dry food producers."
Williams and his father, who both have a background in construction, will continue the build, and other professionals such as a plumber and electrician will be sourced out when the time comes. Once complete, a big feast and celebration will be held.
"This is just a stepping stone," said Williams. "Once it's complete that's when the real work starts."
This is just one example of more than 100 Indigenous-led projects that are underway in communities throughout the province in an effort to strengthen local food security and food sovereignty. The total funding for the Indigenous Food Security and Sovereignty Program is $30 million over the course of three years.
Applications for the third and final round of $10-million funding opened last month. For more information on the program, or to apply for funding visit newrelationshiptrust.ca/apply-for-funding/sustainability-development-goals-sdg-initiatives/food-security-grants/.
“At New Relationship Trust, we recognize that strengthening sustainable food production in B.C. starts with honouring Indigenous leadership and vision for food systems rooted in both land and water,” said NRT chief executive officer Walter Schneider in a press release. “We’re proud to support Indigenous food producers who are driving community well-being, economic growth and food sovereignty, all while upholding their values and deep connection to the land.”
